Monday, June 30, 2025

Today's Paper

Fashion

Jonathan Anderson Sets a New Dressing Agenda at Dior

The designer showed his first men’s collection. Was it any good?

By Vanessa Friedman

image: Jonathan Anderson’s take on the Bar jacket, Dior’s most famous women’s wear shape, which he paired with cargo shorts.

Inside the Bedroom, Bathroom and Mind of Rick Owens

As a new retrospective of his work opens in Paris, fashion’s “lord of darkness” shares a day in his life.

By Vanessa Friedman and Simbarashe Cha

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Chanel Looks to Build Cultural Capital With Arts Magazine

The fashion house hopes the new title, Arts & Culture, can extend Coco Chanel’s legacy of surrounding herself with “audacious creatives.”

By Alex Vadukul

image: Arts & Culture, the first art magazine from Chanel, will be available only at a selection of independent book and magazine stores.

Anna Wintour’s ‘Pivotal Decision’ to Cede (Some) Control

American Vogue will create a new role, “head of editorial content,” beneath Ms. Wintour, who is giving up her editor in chief title. She’s not leaving, though.

By Jessica Testa

image: Anna Wintour at the 2025 Met Gala last month.

Zohran Mamdani’s Well-Dressed Balancing Act

The Democratic candidate for New York City mayor understands what it means to look the part. Many parts.

By Vanessa Friedman

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Did Her Bra Help Her Make History?

Faith Kipyegon, a three-time Olympic champion, didn’t break the four-minute mile, but did set a new personal best wearing a trailblazing bra and spikes from Nike.

By Elizabeth Paton

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Can Savile Row Be Saved by Women Who Want Power Suits?

Daisy Knatchbull set up shop as a dedicated women’s tailor on the world’s most famous street for men’s clothing. Now her sights are set on America.

By Elizabeth Paton

image: Daisy Knatchbull, who is shaking up Savile Row with the first women’s tailoring house on the male-dominated street.

Skimpy Men’s Swimsuits Are Making a Splash

Swim briefs are being embraced by trendy brands, publications and celebrities. Will they show up at a beach near you?

By Max Berlinger

image: Speedo’s offerings include the Jetstream swim briefs ($48), center.

Telfar’s Joyful, Shoppable Declaration of Independence

The designer celebrated 20 years of rewriting fashion’s rules.

By Vanessa Friedman

image: A procession of Telfar models, in all sizes, shapes and ages, paraded the streets of Lower Manhattan.

Why Are So Many Men Wearing Bright Blue Suits Now?

President Trump and others in his White House seem to favor suits in shades besides traditional navy. Our critic offers thoughts on why, and whether it will catch on more broadly.

By Vanessa Friedman

image: President Trump’s blue suit has been adopted by many of members of his administration, especially at moments of public display.

A Broadway Big Shot Is Now Reinventing Himself

Jordan Roth owned five Broadway theaters and produced a string of hits. Now he’s pivoting to performance.

By Michael Paulson and Landon Nordeman

image: Jordan Roth rehearsing what he’s calling a “narrative fashion performance” in a black box studio in Brooklyn.

How Much Do Celebrities Make From Fashion Deals?

And what’s in it for the brands? As the industry’s model for working with public figures shifts, the power dynamics are becoming increasingly unclear.

By Emilia Petrarca

image: From left: the actor Kit Connor, the actor Will Sharpe, the musician Troye Sivan, the actor Murray Bartlett and the actor Josh O’Connor at the fall 2024 Loewe men’s wear show in Paris.

Why Don’t More People Wear Shorts to Work?

As people continue to push the boundaries of traditional office wear, shorts can still feel like a risky choice. Our critic explains why that is, and offers a few styling tips.

By Vanessa Friedman

image: Ayo Edebiri at the premiere of “Inside Out 2.”

Extremely Small and Incredibly Tight: The Bandage Dress Makes a Comeback

Why the signature style of supermodels is once again in the spotlight.

By Vanessa Friedman

image: Hervé Léger with his version of the bandage dress, which he introduced in the early 1990s.

Looking for Men’s Clothes in New York? Start on Orchard Street.

Whether you’re seeking an earth-tone T-shirt or a custom suit, Manhattan’s Lower East Side now offers a concentration of stylish stores.

By Jameson Montgomery

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FIFA Struts Off the Pitch and Onto the Catwalk

Soccer’s governing body is putting its name on a luxury fashion line. Would you buy it?

By Vanessa Friedman

image: Luiz Araujo in a game from the opening weekend of the Club World Cup this month. Don’t expect to see on the pitch what you see in the stores.

French Luxury Giant Kering Taps Auto Executive as Its New Leader

The former chief executive of the carmaker Renault will replace François-Henri Pinault as the struggling company seeks a turnaround.

By Elizabeth Paton

image: Luca de Meo will lead Kering after running Renault since 2020.

Is It OK for Me to Wear Camo in This Political Climate?

With wars in Ukraine and the Middle East and political unrest in the United States, borrowing military aesthetics for fashion is a loaded choice. Our critic explains why she’s shifted her stance on the topic.

By Vanessa Friedman

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How to Choose the Perfect Swimsuit

Take T’s quiz to find the styles that best match your mood, and vacation plans, this summer.

By Laura Regensdorf

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Why Trump Loves a Man in Uniform

As thousands of soldiers prepare to march in President Trump’s military parade, what exactly will we see?

By Vanessa Friedman

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La Dolce Vita, the Valentino Way

Archival photographs, fashion layouts and anecdotes from celebrity clients: A new book is devoted to all things Valentino.

By Marisa Meltzer

image: A young Valentino Garavani in his Rome workshop, circa 1960.

‘By Appointment Only’ in New York: 6 Hidden Shops Worth Visiting

Hand-forged armor. Prehistoric bones. Music that’s never been digitized. This isn’t retail — it’s an invitation-only obsession.

By Laurie Gwen Shapiro and Hiroko Masuike

image: A suit of armor at WassonArtistry, an appointment-only shop in Ridgewood, Queens.

Impressions in Old Paint Become New Mezuzas

Mi Polin, a company in Warsaw, specializes in reproducing traces of the traditional Jewish prayer containers pried off door frames during World War II.

By Ginanne Brownell

image: “We wanted to make something important, something tangible,” said Helena Czernek, a founder of Mi Polin, a Polish company making mezuzas from casts of old ones removed in World War II.

A Theater Returns to Its Multicolor Art Nouveau Glory

Swathes of purple, orange and yellow find their way back to the walls of a municipal auditorium in northern Italy.

By Heike Blümner

image: The Stadttheater in Merano, Italy, was designed by Martin Dülfer, a key figure in the Munich Art Nouveau movement. That style was defined by vibrant colors, such as yellow, orange and purple.

What Do Computer Code and Needlework Have in Common?

Both are based on binary systems, and the Dutch artist Anna Lucia Goense is mining that fact for inspiration.

By Libby Banks

image: “Coding and textiles intersect in many ways,” said the Dutch textile artist Anna Lucia Goense, pictured preparing fabric for a new embroidered work in her Berlin studio.

11 Unforgettable Looks at the BET Awards

Y2K fashion, big hats, simulated nudity and more.

By Anthony Rotunno

image: Doechii’s look involved long manicured nails — and even longer braids.

Sly Stone’s Fabulous Style

It wasn’t just about the fringe and the bling.

By Vanessa Friedman

image: Sty Stone at his Madison Square Garden wedding in 1974.

Watches Get Their Own Special Observance

Nine organizations join forces to designate Oct. 10 as World Watch Day.

By Robin Swithinbank

image: Various watch industry groups have banded together to start World Watch Day. They have chosen Oct. 10 as the date of the observance, because watch hands are usually set to 10 past 10 in photographs.

Inspired by the 19th Century, He Created a Winning Clock

Alexis Fruhauff of Paris took top honors in the 2025 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition.

By Vivian Morelli

image: Alexis Fruhauff, a 29-year-old watchmaker in Paris, has won the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition with a clock he began working on in 2022.

A Heritage Watch Brand Debuts 3 Watches by Its New Team

The management of Urban Jürgensen, a 19th-century maker, now includes the celebrated independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen.

By Victoria Gomelsky

image: The Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th anniversary timepiece. It was presented last week, along with a time-only model and a perpetual calendar, as part of the brand’s reintroduction under new management.

Do You Really Need a Highly Accurate Watch?

Your phone and appliances keep perfect time, but Rolex and other luxury brands trust that buyers will desire precision-focused mechanical models.

By Victoria Gomelsky

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These Clocks May Not Tell Time, but They Tell Frida Kahlo’s Love Story

The artist personalized decorative pottery as mementos of her divorce and remarriage to Diego Rivera.

By Janelle Conaway

image: Frida Kahlo’s hand-inscribed decorative clocks are part of an exhibition exploring the role of the Casa Azul in Kahlo’s life and work.

A.I. Takes Fantasy Watch Design a Step Further

Hobbyists who used to sketch or paint their ideas of timepieces now use the technology for more sophisticated renderings.

By Milena Lazazzera

image: Avi Tejer used artificial intelligence to create a watch with a cameo-style dial depicting a woman in a white tunic playing the harp.

Would You Like a Watch With That Wine?

Kunio Sado wanted to open a vintage resale shop but decided it wouldn’t draw enough customers. His solution? The Perregaux cafe.

By Vivian Morelli

image: In the Kagurazaka area of Tokyo, the Perregaux cafe serves up an unusual mix: antique watches alongside drinks and bites.